How to Identify Authentic Handloom Sarees

How to Identify Authentic Handloom Sarees

How to Identify Authentic Handloom Sarees

When it comes to purchasing handloom sarees, authenticity is of utmost importance. These exquisite pieces of art are not only a testament to the rich cultural heritage of India but also a significant investment. Understanding how to identify authentic handloom sarees can ensure that you are getting the best value for your money. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore various aspects that help in distinguishing genuine handloom sarees from imitations.

Understanding Handloom Sarees

Handloom sarees are crafted on a loom powered manually without the use of electricity. This traditional method of weaving has been passed down through generations, ensuring each saree is unique. The intricate designs and patterns reflect the weaver's skill and dedication.

Key Characteristics of Authentic Handloom Sarees

1. Texture and Feel

The texture of handloom sarees is one of the most telling signs of their authenticity. Genuine handloom sarees have a soft and supple texture. When you touch them, you should feel a slight irregularity due to the manual weaving process. This is in stark contrast to power loom sarees, which often have a smoother, more uniform feel.

2. Weaving Patterns

Handloom sarees exhibit unique weaving patterns that are often region-specific. For instance, the Kanchipuram sarees from Tamil Nadu are known for their rich silk fabric and intricate zari work, while Banarasi sarees from Varanasi are famous for their elaborate brocade designs. Authentic handloom sarees will have detailed and complex patterns that are difficult to replicate on a power loom.

3. Borders and Pallu

The borders and pallu of handloom sarees are typically more elaborate and detailed. The weavers spend extra time crafting these parts, resulting in intricate designs that stand out. The borders may also have a contrasting color, enhancing the overall look of the saree.

4. Color and Dye

Handloom sarees often use natural dyes, giving them a rich and vibrant color. These dyes are absorbed differently by handwoven fabrics, leading to slight variations in color across the saree. This unevenness is a hallmark of authenticity, as machine-made sarees usually have a uniform color.

5. Weight

Handloom sarees are generally lighter than their machine-made counterparts. The manual weaving process allows for a finer fabric that is comfortable to wear. However, some traditional handloom sarees like Kanchipuram may be heavier due to the use of pure silk and zari.

6. Selvedge

The selvedge or border of the saree is another indicator of authenticity. In handloom sarees, the selvedge is usually woven in a different color and is slightly thicker. This reinforces the edges and prevents fraying, a feature often missing in machine-made sarees.

Identifying Fake Handloom Sarees

1. Uniformity in Design

One of the easiest ways to spot a fake handloom saree is to look for uniformity in design. Machine-made sarees will have perfect symmetry and uniformity, whereas handloom sarees will have minor irregularities and imperfections due to the manual weaving process.

2. Price

Authentic handloom sarees come at a premium price due to the labor-intensive process involved in their creation. If a saree is being sold at a suspiciously low price, it is likely to be a fake. It’s essential to purchase handloom sarees from reputed stores or directly from weavers to avoid being duped.

3. Labels and Certifications

Many authentic handloom sarees come with labels and certifications such as the ‘Handloom Mark’ which guarantees that the saree is made on a handloom. Always check for these marks when purchasing a saree.

Popular Types of Handloom Sarees

1. Banarasi Sarees

Banarasi sarees are renowned for their rich silk fabric and intricate brocade work. They often feature Mughal-inspired designs, including motifs of flowers, leaves, and intricate patterns.

2. Kanchipuram Sarees

Known for their durability and grandeur, Kanchipuram sarees are made from pure mulberry silk. The borders and pallu of these sarees are woven separately and then attached to the body, a technique that enhances their beauty and longevity.

3. Chanderi Sarees

Chanderi sarees are lightweight and have a sheer texture. They are known for their soft pastel colors and intricate motifs of flora and fauna.

4. Patola Sarees

Patola sarees from Gujarat are famous for their vibrant colors and geometric designs. The double ikat weaving technique used in these sarees makes them unique and highly prized.

5. Tussar Sarees

Tussar sarees, made from Tussar silk, have a natural golden sheen. They are valued for their rich texture and natural gold color, often adorned with tribal art and motifs.

Tips for Maintaining Handloom Sarees

1. Storage

Store your handloom sarees in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Use muslin cloth to wrap the sarees, allowing the fabric to breathe and preventing discoloration.

2. Cleaning

Handloom sarees should be dry cleaned to maintain their color and texture. Avoid using harsh detergents and always opt for mild, fabric-friendly cleaning agents.

3. Ironing

When ironing handloom sarees, use a low heat setting and place a thin cloth over the saree to avoid direct heat contact. This prevents the fabric from getting damaged.

4. Regular Airing

Periodically air out your sarees to prevent any mildew or musty odor. This is especially important for silk sarees which can absorb moisture.


Identifying authentic handloom sarees requires a keen eye and a bit of knowledge about the weaving process and regional varieties. By paying attention to details like texture, weaving patterns, borders, color, and weight, you can ensure that you are purchasing a genuine handloom saree. Always buy from reputable sources and look for certifications to avoid imitations.

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